Production of a brassiere and brassiere produced thereby

ABSTRACT

A method of manufacture of a brassiere comprising the steps of providing a first substrate layer; providing thermoplastic polyurethane (hereinafter “TPU”) base material; heating the TPU base material to a molten state; providing a printing roller having recesses on its outer surface; transferring molten TPU material into a recess on a printing roller; transferring the molten TPU onto the first substrate layer by rolling the printing roller over at least part of a surface of the substrate layer; providing a second substrate layer; compressing the first substrate layer and second substrate layer together with the transferred TPU in between the first substrate layer and second substrate layer; heating the compressed first substrate layer and second substrate layer to melt the transferred TPU between the substrate layers, thereby bonding at least part of the first substrate layer and at least part of second substrate layer together to form a laminate; cutting the laminate to form a shape suitable for use in a brassiere; and merging the cut laminate to other components to form a brassiere.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to improvements in or relating to theproduction of a brassiere and brassiere produced thereby. Moreparticularly but not exclusively it relates to the use of a particularmethod of lamination used in the manufacture of a brassiere, and abrassiere manufactured by use of this lamination method.

BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION

A large number of brassieres are commercially available worldwide. Avast variety of manufacturing processes and laminating processes areavailable for the lamination of a wide variety of textiles and fabrics.A high demand can be expected for brassieres which meet the public'sgeneral requirements for brassieres, which relate to a wide variety ofaspects. In particular, brassieres are required to have the comfort as asecond skin, have to be “breathable”, have a high washability(durability), a good textile “hand-feel” and softness, and highstretchability.

Currently, various coating methods are used in the manufacture oflingerie products in order to laminate layers of material together. Someuse spray coating methods, while others use dot coating methods. Spraycoating methods involve the spraying of a layer of material with anadhesive and/or solvent, and then the application under pressure of asecond or subsequent layer of material. This method is disadvantageous,as it negatively influences the breathability of the material layers.The known dot-coating methods include the steps of adhering dots ofpaste or powder type adhesives to a layer of material, and thencombining the application of a second layer of material and theapplication of water or possibly a solvent to the paste or possiblypowder to activate the adhesive to bond the two layers of materialtogether.

However, these currently used processes are disadvantageous in that theymay not be environmentally friendly, may not create a satisfactory bondbetween the layers of material, and may result in the production ofgarments that are not satisfactorily durable. In particular, lingerieand/or undergarments are required commercially to be washable between 10and 20 times at 60 degrees Celsius, and for this reason must offer adegree of heat resistance. Current processes may not meet the requiredstandards of heat resistance, wash resistance, stretchability anddurability that are required of such a garment.

Further, once the various layers of fabric are initially laminatedtogether by the above processes, lingerie in particular may be subjectedto further processes such as moulding processes (such as in a bra cupmoulding process) and to which the viscosity of the bonded adhesive usedcurrently may not be suited. Another disadvantage is that the bondedadhesives used currently may not be suited to the production of seamlessgarments, as they may not create a suitable bond strength between thematerial layers.

“Melt print” application processes are known. Using these processes,engraved rollers apply molten “hotmelt” Co-polyamide or Co-polyesteradhesive patterns onto web-like substrates. The adhesive dots are formedby melting granules in a heating system, and extruding the meltedadhesive from an extruder through a heated hose into the coating headwith an engraved roller. The extruded melted adhesive is applied intothe engravings of the engraved roller by a doctor blade. The meltedadhesive in the engravings is then applied to the surface of a substrateby feeding the substrate between the engraved roller and a pressureroller. The dots may be applied in a wide variety of patterns, fromregularly spaced dots to regularly spaced rhombic shaped patterns, orany other pattern. A second layer of substrate is then laid over thefirst layer of patterned substrate, and heat is applied, therebyre-melting the patterned adhesive, causing it to bond to the secondlayer of substrate.

The advantages offered by melt print processes are that high runningspeeds are possible, no emissions are given off since no solvents areused, high bonding strengths may be achieved between bonded substrates,a large working width of the substrate is possible, and directlamination is possible.

In this specification, where reference has been made to external sourcesof information, including patent specifications and other documents,this is generally for the purpose of providing a context for discussingthe features of the present invention. Unless stated otherwise,reference to such sources of information is not to be construed, in anyjurisdiction, as an admission that such sources of information are priorart or form part of the common general knowledge in the art.

It is an object of the present invention to provide improvements in orrelating to the production of a brassiere and brassiere producedthereby, that overcomes or at least ameliorates some of the abovementioned disadvantages or which at least provides the public with auseful choice.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In a first aspect the present invention broadly consists in a method ofmanufacture of a brassiere comprising the steps of:

-   -   providing a first substrate layer;    -   providing thermoplastic polyurethane (hereinafter “TPU”) base        material;    -   heating said TPU base material to a molten state;    -   providing a printing roller having recesses on its outer        surface;    -   transferring molten TPU material into a recess on a roller;    -   transferring the molten TPU onto said first substrate layer by        rolling the printing roller over a surface of the substrate        layer;    -   providing a second substrate layer;    -   compressing the first substrate layer and second substrate layer        together with the transferred TPU in between the first substrate        layer and second substrate layer;    -   heating the compressed first substrate layer and second        substrate layer to melt the transferred TPU between the        substrate layers, thereby bonding at least part of said first        substrate layer and at least part of second substrate layer        together to form a laminate;    -   cutting the laminate to form a shape suitable for use in a        brassiere;    -   merging the cut laminate to other brassiere components to form a        brassiere.

Preferably, the method may include the step of moulding the cut laminateto form at least part of a breast cup shape suitable for use in abrassiere.

Alternatively, the method may include the step of simultaneouslymoulding at least part of the substrate layers to an at least partialbreast cup shape while laminating the first substrate layer and secondsubstrate layer.

Preferably, the step of moulding the cut laminate may be performed bythe application of any or both properties selected from pressure and/orheat.

Preferably, the method may include the step of providing one or both ofstrengthening and/or padding members;

Preferably, the step of transferring molten TPU material into a recesson a roller may be by extrusion.

Preferably, the method may include the step of layering the firstsubstrate layer, the second substrate layer and the strengthening and/orpadding members in a configuration suitable for use in a brassierebefore laminating the first substrate layer and the second substratelayer.

Preferably, the strengthening and/or padding members may be laminatedtogether with the first substrate layer and the second substrate layeras intermediate layer(s).

Preferably, the TPU may be solvent free

Preferably, the TPU base material may be in granular form

Preferably, the first substrate layer may be fabric.

Preferably, the second substrate layer may be fabric

Preferably, the recesses on the outer surface of the printing roller maybe engraved and/or machined.

Preferably, the recesses on the outer surface of the printing roller maybe apertures into a central compartment.

In another aspect the invention may be said to broadly consist in alaminate adapted for use in the manufacture of a brassiere comprising

-   -   a first substrate layer; and    -   a second substrate layer;    -   wherein the first substrate and second substrate have been        laminated by means of a solvent-free heated thermoplastic        polyurethane printing process, and the laminate has been shaped        for application as a part of a brassiere.

Preferably, the laminate is cut into a two-dimensional shape defining atleast part of a pair of breast cups with an intermediate bridge memberbetween them.

Preferably, the laminate has been press moulded into a three-dimensionalshape defining at least part of a pair of breast cups.

Preferably, the laminate is shaped to at least partially definefastening straps.

Preferably, the laminate is adapted to be merged with other brassierecomponents to form a brassiere.

In another aspect the invention may be said to broadly consist in abrassiere comprising

-   -   a laminate including        -   a first substrate; and        -   a second substrate;        -   wherein the first substrate and second substrate have been            laminated by means of a solvent-free heated thermoplastic            polyurethane printing process.

Preferably, the laminate is shaped for application in a brassiere.

Preferably, the laminate is shaped to define a pair of breast cupsconnected by a bridge member.

Preferably, the shape of the laminate further at least partially definesfastening straps.

In another aspect the invention may be said to broadly consist in abrassiere formed at least in part by the method as hereinbeforedescribed.

In another aspect the invention may be said to broadly consist in abrassiere that includes a laminate as hereinbefore described.

Other aspects of the invention may become apparent from the followingdescription which is given by way of example only and with reference tothe accompanying drawings.

As used herein the term “and/or” means “and” or “or”, or both.

As used herein “(s)” following a noun means the plural and/or singularforms of the noun.

This invention may also be said broadly to consist in the parts,elements and features referred to or indicated in the specification ofthe application, individually or collectively, and any or allcombinations of any two or more of said parts, elements or features, andwhere specific integers are mentioned herein which have knownequivalents in the art to which this invention relates, such knownequivalents are deemed to be incorporated herein as if individually setforth.

By seamless is meant the bra is visibly substantially seamless, in thatthe edges of the bra are finished in a seamless way, for example byultrasonic welding, or by folding the edge of an outer layer over andaffixing it to an inner layer by a non-stitching means, or by some othermeans that is substantially without seams. Seams may however be foundinside the bra structure where it is not externally visible, or atvisibly less conspicuous external places such as the region where theshoulder strap is attached to a bra cup region, or the region where hookor eye tape is connected to the chest bands or fastening straps.

Where there is reference to the word “layer” it is to be understood thatit may have its common definition and, but not limited to, that thelayer could consist of one panel or may have regions that are defined bytwo or more panels that are joined and that may each be of a differentcharacteristic (e.g. color, thickness, material, orientation, size).

Where there is reference to the word “layer” it is to be understood thatit may have its common definition and, but not limited to, that thelayer may be of one ply or of more plies of the same or dissimilarcharacteristics (e.g. color, thickness, material, orientation, size)that are engaged to each other such as by lamination or other in an atleast partial overlapping configuration.

The term “comprising” as used in this specification and claims means“consisting at least in part of”. When interpreting statements in thisspecification and claims which include that term, the features, prefacedby that term in each statement, all need to be present but otherfeatures can also be present. Related terms such as “comprise” and“comprised” are to be interpreted in the same manner.

To those skilled in the art to which the invention relates, many changesin construction and widely differing embodiments and applications of theinvention will suggest themselves without departing from the scope ofthe invention as defined in the appended claims. The disclosures and thedescriptions herein are purely illustrative and are not intended to bein any sense limiting.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The invention will now be described by way of example only and withreference to the drawings in which:

FIG. 1: shows the first substrate layer before transferral of the TPUpattern.

FIG. 2: shows the first substrate layer after transferral of the TPUpattern by hotmelt printing, showing various patterns that may beprinted;

FIG. 3: shows how a pair of breast shaped cups are cut from the firstsubstrate layer;

FIG. 4: shows the cut first substrate layer in the shape of a pair ofbreast shaped cups joined by a bridge;

FIG. 5: shows the first cut substrate layer with additionalstrengthening and or padding members layered over it;

FIG. 6: shows the layering of the second substrate layer over theassembly shown in FIG. 5;

FIG. 7: shows the application of heat and pressure to the layeredassembly shown in FIG. 6 to form a laminate;

FIG. 8: shows how the laminated assembly shown in FIG. 6 is moulded toform breast cups and an intermediate bridge;

FIG. 9: shows the assembly formed from the first substrate layer andsecond substrate layer, as well as the strengthening and/or paddingmembers, which has been laminated and shaped, and to which componentsmay be merged to form a brassiere.;

FIG. 10: shows a completed brassiere formed from the first substratelayer and second substrate layer, as well as the strengthening and/orpadding members, which has been laminated and shaped, and to whichcomponents have been merged;

FIG. 11: shows a schematic cross section view of one method of meltingTPU and extruding it onto an engraved roller to be printed onto thefirst substrate; and

FIG. 12: shows a schematic perspective view of a TPU lamination process.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

With reference to the above drawings, a brassiere according to a firstaspect of the invention is generally indicated by the numeral 100.

In one embodiment the brassiere 100 (as shown in FIG. 10) may comprise alaminate 110 of a first substrate 120 and a second substrate 130,wherein the first substrate 120 and second substrate 130 have beenlaminated by means of a solvent-free heated thermoplastic polyurethaneprinting process as detailed below. The laminate 110 (as shown in FIG.9) may be shaped to define a pair of breast cups 140 joined by anintermediate bridge member 150 and fastening straps 160, oralternatively may be shaped to define only a single breast cup or anysingle or combined component of the brassiere. The laminate 110 mayfurther include intermediate layers of strengthening and padding members180 (such as a foam layer) between the first substrate 120 and secondsubstrate 130, and can be merged with other typical brassiere componentssuch as hooks and eyes 200, straps 210 and bows 220 to form thebrassiere 100.

In another aspect of the invention, it is envisaged that the brassiere100 will be formed by a manufacturing process as detailed below:

Initially a first substrate layer 120 comprised of for example fabricwill be provided (as shown in FIG. 1), as well as solvent-free granularthermoplastic polyurethane (“TPU”) base material 300. The TPU basematerial 300 is heated to a molten state and transferred to acylindrical printing roller 310, which has patterned recesses 320engraved on its outer cylindrical surface 330. It is envisaged that themolten TPU 300 can be transferred to the engraved recesses 320 bydipping at least part of the surface 330 of the printing roller 310 intothe molten TPU 300, so that molten material is received into theengraved patterned recesses 320, and then “squeegeeing” or wiping cleanthe outer surface 330 of the printing roller with a blade 340 (as shownin FIG. 11). In an alternative method, it is envisaged that the moltenTPU material 300 can be extruded from an extruder machine (not shown)onto an inside surface of a hollow printing roller 310. In this method,the printing roller 310 has recesses which extend through the outer wallof the printing roller as apertures. Extruded molten TPU material 300 isthen extruded into the apertures in the outer wall of the printingroller 310. It will be appreciated that a wide variety of methods may beused to transfer molten TPU material 300 to patterned recesses 320 inthe printing roller 310.

The first substrate layer 120 is rolled between the printing roller 310and a pressure roller 312, thereby transferring the molten TPU 300 tothe first substrate layer 120 in the same pattern that it is receivedinto the recesses 320 on the printing roller 310. It is envisaged thatthe TPU material 300 that has been transferred onto the first substratelayer 120 will be allowed to cool at this stage, thereby solidifying inthe printed pattern. However, the TPU material 300 may not necessarilybe allowed to cool and solidify, and may remain molten.

In one embodiment strengthening and/or padding members 180 (such as bracup stiffening inserts and the like, which will be apparent to a personskilled in the art) are then disposed intermediate a second substratelayer 130 (composed for example of fabric) and the first patternedsubstrate layer 120, with the patterned TPU disposed between the secondsubstrate layer 130 and the first patterned substrate layer 120, andthese are compressed together while being heated. It should beappreciated that such strengthening and/or padding members do notnecessarily need to be present. For example, the second substrate layercan be applied directly to the first substrate layer without anystrengthening and/or padding member being disposed between the twosubstrate layers. It will also be appreciated that if desired, thesecond substrate layer or any of the strengthening and/or paddingmembers may also be coated with TPU in a similar manner.

The heat (shown as arrows A in FIG. 7), together with pressure (shown asarrow B in FIG. 7) created by the compression of the layers in a press170, will cause the patterned TPU material 300 on the first substratelayer 120 to re-melt and bond to the second substrate layer 130, therebyforming a laminate 110. In one embodiment the TPU material 300 will alsobond to the strengthening and/or padding members 180, although, asnoted, this may not be the case in other embodiments.

In a preferred embodiment the laminate 110 is then cut into a shapedefining a pair of beast cups joined by an intermediate bridge (oralternatively into any shape defining a single breast cup or any othersingle or combined component of a brassiere). At this stage, thelaminate 110 is moulded on a press to take on the shape of a pair ofbreast cups. It is further envisaged that application of pressure andheat to form the laminate can be carried out in a shaped mould, so thatthe layers are moulded to form a breast cup shape while lamination ofthe first substrate layer 120, second substrate layer 130 andstrengthening and/or padding members 180 is simultaneously occurring. Itis further envisaged that the laminate 110 may be shaped in a mould to abreast cup shape before cutting of the laminate 110. The order of theseoperations is not important.

This cut laminate 110 is used as a component to form a brassiere 100, bymerging and attaching various other typical components, such as hooksand eyes 200, straps 210 and bows 220 to it.

In this manner, the advantages offered by using solvent free TPU in a“hotmelt” printing process to bond substrate layers (for example fabriclayers, foam layers, membrane film, etc.) together in a laminate for usein the manufacture of a brassiere, may be utilised. In particular, thisprocess offers exceptional synergistic advantages (which areparticularly relevant in the manufacture of undergarments) in:

-   -   the strength of the bond between layers,    -   the washability of the laminate,    -   the heat resistance of the bond,    -   the softness of the feel of the laminated layers,    -   the stretchability of the laminated layers,    -   the breathability of the laminate,    -   less toxic/dusty working conditions for workers,    -   the mouldability of the laminate into breast cup shapes,    -   the aesthetic value of the patterned laminate.

Additionally, the applicability of the process to high volume processes,and the ability to insert intermediate layers of strengthening and/orpadding 180, makes this process ideally suited to the production ofundergarments, and in particular brassieres.

Where in the foregoing description reference has been made to elementsor integers having known equivalents, then such equivalents are includedas if they were individually set forth.

Although the invention has been described by way of example and withreference to particular embodiments, it is to be understood thatmodifications and/or improvements may be made without departing from thescope or spirit of the invention.

In addition, where features or aspects of the invention are described interms of Markush groups, those skilled in the art will recognise thatthe invention is also thereby described in terms of any individualmember or subgroup of members of the Markush group.

1. A method of manufacture of a brassiere comprising the steps of:providing a first substrate layer; providing thermoplastic polyurethane(hereinafter “TPU”) base material; heating said TPU base material to amolten state; providing a printing roller having recesses on its outersurface; transferring molten TPU material into a recess on a printingroller; transferring the molten TPU onto said first substrate layer byrolling the printing roller over at least part of a surface of thesubstrate layer; providing a second substrate layer; compressing thefirst substrate layer and second substrate layer together with thetransferred TPU in between the first substrate layer and secondsubstrate layer; heating the compressed first substrate layer and secondsubstrate layer to melt the transferred TPU between the substratelayers, thereby bonding at least part of said first substrate layer andat least part of second substrate layer together to form a laminate;cutting the laminate to form a shape suitable for use in a brassiere;and merging the cut laminate to other components to form a brassiere. 2.A method as claimed in claim 1, including the step of moulding the cutlaminate to form at least part of a breast cup shape suitable for use ina brassiere.
 3. A method as claimed in claim 1, including the step ofsimultaneously moulding at least part of the substrate layers to an atleast partial breast cup shape while laminating the first substratelayer and second substrate layer.
 4. A method as claimed in claim 1,wherein the step of moulding the cut laminate is performed by theapplication of any or both elements selected from pressure and/or heat.5. A method as claimed in claim 1, including the step of providing oneor both of strengthening and/or padding members disposed between thefirst and the second substrate layers.
 6. A method as claimed in claim1, including, the step of transferring molten TPU material into a recesson a roller may be by extrusion.
 7. A method as claimed in claim 5,including the step of layering the first substrate layer, the secondsubstrate layer and the strengthening and/or padding members in aconfiguration suitable for use in a brassiere before laminating thefirst substrate layer and the second substrate layer.
 8. A method asclaimed in claim 5, wherein the strengthening and/or padding members islaminated together with the first substrate layer and the secondsubstrate layer as at least one intermediate layer.
 9. A method asclaimed in claim 1, wherein the TPU is solvent free.
 10. A method asclaimed in claim 1, wherein the TPU base material is in granular form.11. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the first substrate layer isfabric.
 12. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the second substratelayer is fabric.
 13. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein therecesses on the outer surface of the printing roller are engraved.
 14. Amethod as claimed in claim 1, wherein the recesses on the outer surfaceof the printing roller are machined.
 15. A method as claimed in claim 1,wherein the recesses on the outer surface of the printing roller areapertures into a central compartment.
 16. A laminate adapted for use inthe manufacture of a brassiere comprising a first substrate layer; and asecond substrate layer; wherein the first substrate layer and secondsubstrate layer have been laminated by means of a solvent-free heatedthermoplastic polyurethane printing process, and the laminate has beenshaped for application as a component of a brassiere.
 17. A laminate asclaimed in claim 16, wherein the laminate is shaped to define a pair ofbreast cups with an intermediate bridge member between them.
 18. Alaminate as claimed in claim 17, wherein the laminate is shaped to atleast partially define fastening straps.
 19. A brassiere comprising alaminate including a first substrate; and a second substrate; whereinthe first substrate and second substrate have been laminated by means ofa solvent-free heated thermoplastic polyurethane printing process.
 20. Abrassiere as claimed in claim 19, wherein the laminate is shaped forapplication in a brassiere.
 21. A brassiere as claimed in claim 19,wherein the laminate is shaped to define a pair of breast cups connectedby a bridge member.
 22. A brassiere as claimed in claim 19, wherein theshape of the laminate further at least partially defines fasteningstraps.
 23. A brassiere formed at least in part by the method accordingto claim
 1. 24. A brassiere that includes a laminate according to claim16.